1. Safety: Our guides have undergone extensive training and testing in technical and safety skills. They are trained to manage risk and make sound decisions to ensure your safety. In addition, all of our guides are trained in Wilderness Medicine and hold certifications as Wilderness First Responders.
2. Training: We choose to only staff AMGA (American Mountain Guide Association) certified climbing guides. AMGA certification is a rigorous process that requires extensive experience and technical knowledge. Certified guides and instructors have demonstrated proficiency in technical systems, climbing ability, and professionalism. This expertise allows them to provide our clients with most cutting edge knowledge so you have the very best experience.
3. Expertise: We pride ourselves on our vast knowledge of the climbing areas we operate. In addition to our expertise on climbing routes  we find the flora, fauna, and history of the areas we guide in fascinating as well.  Many of our guides boast first ascents in the areas we climb!
4. Professionalism: AMGA certification requires guides to adhere to a code of ethics and professional standards. This means that they are committed to providing a high level of service, respecting the environment, and treating clients with respect and integrity.
5. Customized Experience: Our guides can tailor their services to meet your specific needs and goals. We enjoy helping clients meets their goals and ambitions, whether that’s choosing the best routes based on your experience level, or by providing technical instructional and guidance  to help you reach the next step in your climbing journey.
6. Community: By hiring one of our guides, you are supporting our local community. We pride ourselves on being excellent stewards of the areas we operate in. Over the years, we’ve spent countless hours doing trail work, cleanups, and performing maintenance on hardware to keep the routes we climb on safe for everyone to enjoy.

Climbing Guide Erik Kloeker on ‘A Portait of the Artist as a Young Man’ (5.11b), Bibliothek, Muir Valley, Red River Gorge, KY, USA.

If you’ve been around the sport of climbing for long you’ve probably heard about the Red River Gorge, a world-renowned rock climbing destination located in eastern Kentucky, USA. There are several factors that make Red River Gorge a great place for rock climbing:

1. Abundant and Diverse Climbing Routes: Red River Gorge offers over 3000 routes, ranging from beginner to expert levels. The unique sandstone cliffs offer a variety of rock formations, ranging from steep overhangs and roofs with juggy pockets, to long slabs and crimpy iron rich edges. This diversity of routes and styles allows climbers of all levels to find a challenge that suits their abilities.
2. Easy Access: Many of the climbing areas in Red River Gorge are easily accessible from the road or parking areas, which makes it convenient for climbers to quickly get to the routes they want to climb. Walls are commonly reached by a short 15-30 minute hike.
3. High Quality Rock: The sandstone rock in Red River Gorge is known for its high quality, offering climbers excellent grip, and densely featured rock faces. The distinct makeup of the rock in Red River Gorge paired thousands of years of water erosion has left perfect holds for climbing on.
4.  Bolts: Despite great trad climbing in the area, the Red River Gorge is most well know it’s plethora of well bolted sport climbs, allowing for lots of well protected terrain and fun climbing.
5. Beautiful Scenery: The natural beauty of Red River Gorge adds to the overall climbing experience. The area is known for its lush forests, scenic hiking trails, rushing waterfalls, and breathtaking views of the surrounding cliffs and valleys.
6. Community: Red River Gorge has a strong and welcoming climbing community, with local climbers and businesses providing support and resources for visiting climbers. The community also helps to maintain and preserve the climbing areas in the region, ensuring that the rock remains safe and accessible for future generations of climbers.

Planning a climbing trip to Red River Gorge, Kentucky can be exciting but also requires some preparation. Here are some steps to help you plan your trip:

1. Choose your dates: Red River Gorge is a popular climbing destination, so it’s a good idea to plan your trip well in advance to secure accommodations and availability of guides or instructors. The best times to climb are typically in the spring and fall, when temperatures are mild, with the fall being the least amount of rain. Throughout summer and early winter can also offer fair climbing conditions with less crowds to contend with.
2. Decide on your climbing goals: Red River Gorge offers a wide range of climbing routes for different skill levels and styles from steep jug hauls to techy face climbs. Decide on your goals, whether you want to push yourself to climb harder grades or just enjoy the scenery while climbing more moderate routes.
3. Research climbing areas: There are many different climbing areas within Red River Gorge, each with its own unique character and style of climbing. Do some research to find the areas that best match your goals and preferences. You can find information on climbing routes, grades, and difficulty levels on websites such as Mountain Project and the print guidebook for the area..
4. Book accommodations: Red River Gorge has several options for accommodations, including campgrounds, Airbnb’s, cabins, and hotels. If you plan to camp, be sure to check the availability of campsites and facilities, and make sure to make a reservation if necessary. For cabins or hotels, be sure to book well in advance, especially during peak climbing season. Check out Bluegrass Climbing School’s top picks for lodging here.
5. Hire a guide or instructor: If you’re new to climbing or want to improve your skills, hiring a guide or instructor can be a great investment. There are several local guide services that offer guided climbing trips and instruction in Red River Gorge. You can book an AMGA certified guide for your trip from Bluegrass Climbing School here.
6. Pack your gear: Make a list of all the climbing gear you’ll need for your trip, including ropes, harnesses, shoes, and protection equipment. If you don’t have your own gear, consider renting from a local gear shop or from your guide service.
7. Plan for logistics: Red River Gorge is located in a rural area, so plan for logistics such as transportation to and from climbing areas, food and supplies, and emergency services. Be sure to also familiarize yourself with local rules and regulations, such as permit requirements for certain areas or Leave No Trace practices.

With these steps, you can plan a successful climbing trip to Red River Gorge and enjoy the beautiful scenery and challenging climbs that the Red River Gorge has to offer.

The Red is by far one of the easiest climbing areas to find camping and lodging accommodations,  several climber campgrounds and plethora of cabins rentals options exist to fit the needs of most. Here’s a list of our favorites!

Author: Erik Kloeker

Climber Campgrounds:

Miguel’s Pizza

The most popular climber campground, Miguel’s is a good option for those looking for an inexpensive communal camping area, at the center of the climbing community. During the busy season one can expect the campground to be crowded, and peace and quiet scarce. Miguel’s currently charges ~$3 per person a night, register at the Miguel’s gear shop.
Lago Linda’s

Lago Linda’s is a great option for those looking for car camping and a bit of privacy, Lago’s is best suited for those who plan to climb primarily in the Southern Region, since it is located 10 minutes from the PMRP and Bald Rock Fork Crags. Expect a longer drive for crags in the Northern Gorge. Currently $6 a person per night, with free showers.

Backcountry Camping

One can purchase a backcountry camping pass for a few dollars a night which allows overnight camping in the Daniel Boone National Forest and Clifty Wilderness Areas (The Northern Gorge.) Passes are available at the Shell Gas Station in Slade and the Glady Visitor Center, among other places.

Cabins

There are too many cabin options to list, but a short internet search will reveal a plethora of cabin’s at all price points for those who prefer to live luxuriously.

RRGCC Properties

As of June 2018, there is no overnight parking allowed on any Coalition properties (PMRP, BRRP, MFRP). Primitive camping is apparently allowed, just as long as you do not park a car there (i.e. dropped off or hike in).

Other Options

Several non-climber oriented campgrounds exist for those seeking a more family oriented experience, or for those seeking RV hookups. These include Koomer Ridge Campground, run by the National Forest Service, Middle Fork RV Campground and Whittleton Campground which are run by the Natural Bridge State Park, Callie’s RV Campground in Stanton, among others.

Cabins, Hotels, and Hostels:

Airbnbs

We recommend airbnb to find small businesses and individuals renting out their house or private cabin. These rentals tend to be a bit more quaint and secluded with a more personal touch than found with the larger rental companies. They can also come at a better bargain!

Red River Gorgeous/Tree House Cabins

Red River Gorgeous is a great choice if you’re looking for one of the few cabins actually located within the Daniel Boone National Forest. They also offer a number of amazing tree house cabins built by our friends Django Kroner and the Canopy Crew.

Red River Gorge Cabin Company

Scenic Cabin Rentals

Bedrock

Located conveniently on 2016 on your way to Muir Valley, and centrally located to the rest of Red River Gorge, Bedrock offers private rooms and a community bunk house with a large upscale communal living space and friendly hosts.

Chocolat Inn

Choclat Inn is a hip climber owned motel, in an old renovated strip motel. In addition to lodging, they specialize in boutique sweets and treats available in their cafe.

We thought we’d take a break from climbing and talk about our favorites places in Red River Gorge to eat, and have a beer, and hang out with friends! Hope you enjoy our picks!

Miguel’s Pizza

Not a lot needs said about this one, Miguel’s Pizza is the center of the Red River Gorge Climbing Universe. Since as early as 1984, long before the Red River Gorge was known as the world class climbing destination, Miguel started serving up food to hungry climbers, it has been an oasis for climbers ever since. As the climbing community grew, so too did Miguel’s which now offers more than just pizza, including delicious sandwiches, bowls, salads and an excellent breakfast menu. As well as a great selection of ice cold beer and Margaritas.

The Rockhouse

Located on KY 11, 4 miles past Miguels, the Red River Rockhouse is an eclectic cafe serving up Burritos, Tacos, Burgers, and Salads made with fresh ingredients and staffed by climbers. The Rockhouse is a popular choice amongst local climbers, we recommend coming early for dinner or good luck getting a table on busy weekends. Nonetheless we find the food always comes out fast no matter how busy they are. Their Barbacoa, Carnitas, and Tempeh burritos are the best around.

Photo courtesy Billy Simek

The “Standard Rack”

As climbing guide in Red River Gorge, I often get asked “What is the best trad rack for climbing the area.” You’ll frequently hear that a particular route requires a “standard rack”, but no one one ever defines what a standard rack is. Guidebooks and climbers are reluctant to define a standard rack is because, well.. it is subjective. It depends greatly on the comfort level of the climber on the terrain, and how much gear will use to safely protect the route. Add to that, the fact that each climb is unique and will take a variety of gear and sizes to protect it. 

Disclaimer: Purchasing a Trad Rack is only the first step, one has to then learn how to use it! Seek a qualified mentor or Climbing School to help you along the way. 

RRG Cracks Are Full of Variety

The Red River Gorge is rarely ever “splitter” a term used to describe parallel sided cracks. Splitters stay a consistent size for the duration of the climb. The cracks here in Red River Gorge are filled with variation both from top to bottom, as well as in depth. While a climb may take a #2 Black Diamond Camalot near the surface, further back in the crack may reveal a #1 read more…